Best Chainsaws for Cutting Firewood

For most households cutting firewood, the best chainsaws are the Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss (50.2cc gas, 18-inch bar) for steady seasonal work, the EGO Power+ CS2005 (56V, 20-inch bar) for a battery saw with gas-class output, the Echo CS-590 Timber Wolf (59.8cc, 20-inch bar) for dense hardwood, and the EGO Power+ CS1804 (56V, 18-inch bar) for one to two cords a year. Match bar length to your widest log plus about two inches, pick engine size by wood density, and pick the power source by how many cords you cut each year.

Firewood is a different job from yard cleanup. You make the same cut dozens or hundreds of times, often in hardwood, so weight, runtime, chain sharpening and engine power matter more than a long feature list. This guide matches saw class to log size and weekly volume, compares gas and battery runtime per cord, and explains how weight turns into fatigue over a day of bucking.

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Quick picks by firewood volume

• Under 2 cords a year, mostly softwood or small limbs: Stihl MS 170 (30.1cc, light) or a battery saw such as the EGO CS1804.
• 2 to 4 cords a year, mixed hardwood: EGO CS2005 or Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss.
• 4 or more cords a year, dense hardwood: Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Echo CS-590 Timber Wolf or Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss.
• Already own 60V batteries: DEWALT DCCS670T1 for smaller logs.
• Corded, close to a woodpile with power: Oregon CS1500 for light firewood work.

How we chose

This is a research-based comparison, not a cutting trial. We compared manufacturer specifications and published model listings, cross-checked engine displacement, voltage, bar length and weight across multiple sources, and kept models where those specs agreed. Where a source gave a number we could not confirm, we describe the saw by spec class. Our criteria:

1. Bar length versus log diameter: enough bar for the widest log you cut.
2. Power versus wood density: engine displacement or battery voltage should suit softwood, mixed hardwood or dense hardwood.
3. Runtime per cord: gas runs as long as you refuel; battery saws are limited by pack capacity.
4. Weight and balance: a heavy saw wears you down long before the engine tires.
5. Chain sharpening and maintenance: how easy it is to keep a good edge in the field.
6. Safety features: chain brake, low-kickback chain, handguard.

Match bar length to log size

A bar that is too short forces you to cut a log from two sides. A bar that is too long on a small saw bogs down and is harder to control. A sound rule is to choose a bar at least two inches longer than the widest log you routinely cut.

Engine size by wood type

• Softwoods (pine, fir, cedar): 38-50cc is adequate.
• Mixed hardwoods (oak, ash, maple): 50cc or more is recommended.
• Dense hardwoods (hickory, locust, osage): 55cc or more is preferred.

An undersized engine bogs in hardwood, slows the cut and wears the chain faster, because you lean on the saw instead of letting the chain pull itself through.

Compare the saws

The products

1. Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss (gas)

Spec line: 50.2cc · about 3.5 bhp · 16-20 in bar (18 in common) · about 12.3 lb powerhead

Best for: Four or more cords a year of mixed hardwood where you want a proven saw with dealer parts and service.

Skip if: You cut under a cord or two a year, or you want a light saw for pruning.

• Pros: A balanced 50cc engine, a size that handles most oak and ash, strong dealer support, and widely available chains.
• Cons: Mid-range to premium price tier, two-stroke fuel mixing, and gas noise and vibration.

2. Husqvarna 455 Rancher (gas)

Spec line: 55.5cc · about 3.5 hp · 20 in bar

Best for: Buyers cutting dense hardwood or logs up to about 18 inches across.

Skip if: You want a lightweight saw; this class is heavier than 45cc models. Check current availability, since Husqvarna refreshes its Rancher line and the closely related 450 Rancher family has changed names.

• Pros: Extra displacement for hardwood, a 20-inch bar, and a design aimed at farm and ranch use.
• Cons: More weight and more vibration than smaller saws, and the same fuel-mix upkeep as any two-stroke.

3. Echo CS-590 Timber Wolf (gas)

Spec line: 59.8cc · about 3.6 hp · 20 in bar · five-year warranty listed

Best for: Heavy, repeated bucking of hardwood where you want maximum torque in a homeowner-grade saw.

Skip if: You mostly cut small limbs or you want a light saw to use for hours at a time.

• Pros: The largest engine in the guide for gas, strong warranty, and forged internals described in published specs.
• Cons: Heavy, premium cost, and more saw than light users need.

4. Stihl MS 170 (gas)

Spec line: 30.1cc · about 1.3 kW · 12-16 in bar · about 8.6 lb

Best for: Limbing, pruning and bucking small softwood rounds for a fire pit or a cord or less a year.

Skip if: You split oak or other hardwood regularly; a 30cc engine runs out of power in large logs.

• Pros: Very light, easy to start and handle, and simple to maintain.
• Cons: Limited capacity, short bar, and slow in dense wood.

5. EGO Power+ CS2005 (battery)

Spec line: 56V high-output · 20 in bar · gas-class output · about 19 lb in the kit with battery

Best for: Suburban firewood cutters who want gas-class output without fuel, fumes or pull-starting.

Skip if: You need to cut all day with no charging, or you will not invest in a second pack.

• Pros: Strong output for a battery saw, quiet, instant start and lower maintenance than gas.
• Cons: Premium price tier, heavy with a large battery installed, and runtime is capped by pack capacity.

6. EGO Power+ CS1804 (battery)

Spec line: 56V · 18 in bar · about 45cc gas-equivalent rating · battery included in kit

Best for: One to two cords a year, mostly small to medium logs, in a quiet neighborhood.

Skip if: You cut dense hardwood regularly or for long stretches.

• Pros: No fuel mixing, low noise, and reviewers cite around 300 cuts per charge on small material in the manufacturer-style claim.
• Cons: Cuts per charge fall quickly with log diameter, and a spare battery adds cost.

7. DEWALT DCCS670T1 (battery)

Spec line: 60V FlexVolt · 16 in bar · kit with battery

Best for: Households already on the DEWALT FlexVolt platform and cutting logs up to about 12 inches.

Skip if: You routinely cut logs wider than 12 inches and need a longer bar.

• Pros: Platform compatibility, brushless motor and manageable weight.
• Cons: A 16-inch bar caps log size, and runtime depends on battery capacity.

8. Oregon CS1500 (corded)

Spec line: 15-amp · 18 in bar · self-sharpening system

Best for: A woodpile near an outlet and light, intermittent firewood cutting.

Skip if: You cut in the woods or need to cut several cords.

• Pros: No fuel, no battery, and easy chain upkeep thanks to the built-in sharpener.
• Cons: Cord limits reach, and the motor suits light work only.

Worked example: gas versus battery runtime per cord

Use this method to estimate how many cuts you need and whether a battery saw will keep up. The inputs below are illustrative assumptions, not measurements.

1. Know the solid wood in a cord. A full cord stacks to 128 cubic feet, but only roughly 80 cubic feet of that is wood once gaps are removed.
2. Pick your log diameter and piece length. Say 12-inch logs cut to 16-inch pieces.
3. Compute the volume of one piece. A 12-inch circle is about 0.79 square feet. At 16 inches long (1.33 feet), one piece is about 1.05 cubic feet.
4. Divide. 80 divided by 1.05 gives about 76 cuts per cord of 12-inch logs.
5. Repeat with smaller logs. At 8-inch diameter, a piece is about 0.47 cubic feet, so a cord needs roughly 170 cuts.
6. Compare to your pack. If a battery saw is advertised for a few hundred cuts per charge on small stock, a cord of 8-inch wood may use close to a full pack. A cord of 12-inch hardwood takes fewer cuts but each cut draws far more energy, so real runtime is shorter than the headline number.
7. Decide. If you cut one or two cords a year, a battery saw plus one spare pack is realistic. At four or more cords a year, gas refuels in a minute and does not stop when a pack is empty.

Weight and fatigue

Fatigue is where saws separate. A heavy saw held for a few hours pulls your shoulders and back, which raises the chance of a slip or kickback. Rules that keep you safe and productive:

• Cut at waist height on a sawbuck or log cradle instead of bending over.
• Let the saw’s weight do the cutting; do not push down.
• Rest a few minutes each hour; a tired operator cuts badly.
• If a 12-pound saw feels heavy by the end of a session, a lighter saw with a shorter bar will do less damage to you than a bigger saw you cannot control.

Battery saws feel lighter because of no fuel, but a large pack adds weight to the rear handle, so weigh the saw as it will be used.

Chain sharpening and upkeep

• Touch up the chain often. A few file strokes at each fuel stop or battery swap keep a clean edge and keep sawdust coarse instead of powdery. Fine dust means a dull chain.
• Use the right round file for your chain pitch and keep angles consistent. Use a guide if you are new.
• Check tension and oil. A loose chain can derail; low bar oil heats and ruins a bar quickly.
• Keep the chain out of dirt. Stones and soil dull chains faster than wood does. Cut logs on a stand, not on the ground.
• Corded saw note: a self-sharpening feature such as the Oregon system helps between touch-ups but does not replace regular filing.

Safety when cutting firewood

• Wear chainsaw chaps, a helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, cut-resistant gloves and sturdy boots.
• Confirm the chain brake engages before each session and keep a fire extinguisher and first-aid kit nearby.
• Hold the saw with both hands, thumbs wrapped, and keep the bar tip clear of the ground and other logs to avoid kickback.
• Never cut above shoulder height or one-handed.
• Watch for pinched bars: support both sides of a log and consider making a relief cut when a log is under tension.
• Refuel gas saws on bare ground away from where you started them, with the engine off and cool, and wipe up spills.
• Do not operate a saw when you are tired or distracted. Do not fell large trees yourself; hire a professional for hazardous or leaning trees.

Frequently asked questions

What size chainsaw do I need to cut firewood?

A 16 to 20 inch bar covers most firewood. Choose a bar at least two inches longer than your widest log, and a 45-60cc gas engine or a 56V-class battery saw.

Is a gas or battery chainsaw better for firewood?

Gas is better for four or more cords a year; battery is better for one to two cords. Gas gives unlimited runtime, while battery saws are quieter, lighter on maintenance and start instantly.

How many cords can one battery cut?

It depends on log size. Small logs may yield a few hundred cuts per charge, while dense hardwood uses far more power per cut. Plan on a spare battery for anything beyond a fraction of a cord.

Is 50cc enough for hardwood?

Yes for most mixed hardwood such as oak and ash. For dense hardwoods like hickory or locust and for large rounds, 55cc or more bogs down less and cuts faster.

What bar length is best for cutting firewood?

An 18-inch bar suits most homeowners cutting logs up to about 16 inches across. Use 16 inches for smaller wood, and 20 inches when logs run 16 to 20 inches.

Can I use a small saw like the Stihl MS 170 for firewood?

For small amounts, yes. A 30cc saw handles limbs and small softwood rounds, but it struggles with hardwood and large logs, so keep it to a cord or less a year.

How often should I sharpen the chain?

Touch it up at every refuel or battery swap, and any time cutting slows or dust turns fine and powdery. Hitting dirt or stone means sharpen or replace the chain right away.

Do I need a heavier saw for bigger logs?

Not always. Pick a longer bar and more power for big logs, but a heavy saw tires you and raises risk. For logs over 20 inches, consider a professional-grade saw or splitting the work into smaller rounds.