Best Push Sticks and Push Blocks for Table Saw Safety

The best push stick setup is a pair: a long push stick for narrow rips and a push block or push shoe with a heel for wide boards. Brands such as Gripper, Grr-Ripper, Microjig and Kreg make well-regarded options, and a shop-made plywood push stick is a good free backup. What matters is that the tool keeps your hand at least six inches from the blade and pushes the board down as well as forward.

Our top picks

Top pickMICROJIG GRR-RIPPER GB-1 Grr-Rip Smart Hook Push-Block

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Also greatGRR-RIPPER+ by Microjig. Includes SafeRip Kit. Fully

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Also greatMICROJIG GRR-RIPPER 2GO Push Block for Routers

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Also greatMICROJIG GRR-RIPPER GB-1 Grr-Rip Smart Hook Push-Block

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Quick Comparison of Push Sticks and Blocks

Check each manufacturer’s listing for current model names, as several of these brands refresh their lines.

Best Overall: Microjig GRR-RIPPER

This block holds the workpiece down on the table while a handle keeps your hand high above the blade. It is designed for rips, narrow strips and cutting thin material, with an adjustable heel that stops the board from lifting. It is the choice for people who feel unsure about hand position.

The trade-off is a learning curve and a higher cost than a simple push stick. Foam pads eventually wear and need replacing.

Best for Jointer and Router Table Work: Paired Push Blocks

A pair of push blocks spreads pressure across a board and lets you move your hands forward without releasing the stock. They are practical on a jointer, where hand position changes mid-pass, and on a router table.

Best for Edge Work: Wide Router Push Block

A wide pad with a firm grip is useful when routing small pieces against a fence. It is not designed for through-cuts on a table saw blade, but it is a good companion tool for the same shop.

Best Grippy Block: Bench Dog ProGrip

Rubber-faced blocks do a lot to prevent slip on laminate and veneered panels. They are inexpensive and easy to replace when worn.

Best Free Option: Shop-Made Plywood Push Stick

A notched push stick cut from 3/4-inch plywood costs nothing and can be sacrificed when it gets nicked by the blade. Make several in different sizes and keep them hanging near the saw so you never skip using one.

Best Premium Option: Aluminium Push Shoes

Premium push shoes from specialist woodworking brands use machined aluminium and ergonomic handles. They are durable and balanced, and some include replaceable sole strips. They suit full-time shops where tools are used every day.

How to Choose Push Sticks

Match tool to cut width

Look for a heel and a hold-down

A heel pushes the trailing edge forward. A hold-down keeps the board flat. A tool with both gives you a controlled cut, while a bare stick only gives you forward motion.

Grip comfort and replaceable parts

Foam and rubber wear first, so choose a brand where these parts can be replaced. A comfortable handle also encourages you to actually reach for it.

How to Use a Push Stick Correctly

1. Set fence and blade height first, with the blade only about a quarter inch above the board.
2. Keep your body to the left of the blade line to avoid kickback path.
3. Feed with your left hand holding the board against the fence until about 12 inches from the blade.
4. Use the push stick with your right hand to push through the end of the cut.
5. Continue pushing until the board has completely cleared the blade, then shut off the saw.

Ownership Realities

Push sticks are consumables. Inspect them for damage and replace cracked ones. Do not store them where heat or sunlight softens plastic. Having at least three tools in the shop, such as two push sticks and one block, makes it less tempting to use bare hands for a quick cut.

Which Push Tool for Which Cut

Worked Example: Setting Up a Safe Narrow Rip

Suppose you need a 1-1/2 inch strip from a 5 inch board. Set the fence 1-1/2 inches from the blade so the strip is the part between fence and blade. That means the strip stays on the fence side and a push stick must go in that narrow gap. Instead, flip the setup: put the 3-1/2 inch wide piece between the fence and blade, and let the narrow 1-1/2 inch offcut fall to the open side. Now you have plenty of room for a push block on the wide piece, and the thin offcut is free to move away without trapping.

The same logic applies any time you can choose which side of the cut is the keeper. Always keep the wider piece between the blade and fence when you can, because it is easier to hold and control.

Accessories That Work With Push Tools

• Featherboards hold stock against the fence and hands stay out of the cut zone.
• Overhead blade guards with a splitter or riving knife help prevent kickback.
• Zero-clearance inserts keep thin strips from falling into the throat.
• Outfeed supports catch long boards so they do not drop at the end of the cut.
• Dust collection on the blade shroud keeps the line of cut visible.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I use a push stick on a table saw?

Use one whenever your hand would come within about six inches of the blade, which includes most rips of narrow stock. Many woodworkers use one for every cut.

Is a push block better than a push stick?

For wide, flat boards a push block gives better control because it spreads pressure and keeps the board down. For very narrow rips a push stick or shoe fits where a block cannot.

Can I make my own push stick?

Yes. Cut a pattern from 3/4-inch plywood with a notched heel and a comfortable handle. Many woodworking magazines publish free patterns.

Which side of the blade should I stand on?

Stand slightly to the left of the blade, outside the line where a kickback would travel. This keeps your body out of the board’s path.

How often should I replace push sticks?

Replace them when the heel is chewed up, the handle cracks or the grip pads no longer hold. Shop-made ones are cheap to remake.